Buyer guide

Radon in Georgia homes

What radon is, how to find out if a home has it, how it gets fixed and who fixes it — plus how to keep an eye on it after you move in. It's common in Northeast Georgia, and it's fixable.

The basics

What is radon?

Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas that comes from the breakdown of uranium in soil and rock — and North Georgia's granite-rich ground produces plenty of it. It's odorless, colorless and tasteless, so you can't see, smell or feel it. It seeps up from the ground into homes through cracks in foundations, gaps around pipes, crawlspaces and other openings, and it can also come in through well water.

Radon can be a problem in any home: new or old, drafty or tightly sealed, with a basement, a crawlspace or a slab. Two houses next door to each other can test completely differently. The only way to know is to test.

Why it matters

  • Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the U.S., after smoking.
  • It's linked to about 21,000 deaths a year nationwide, including more than 800 in Georgia (UGA Extension).
  • The risk is much higher for anyone who smokes or has smoked.
  • The good news: it's easy to test for, and a high level is very fixable.

Local data

Radon in the counties we serve

The University of Georgia tracks radon test results across the state. Here's the share of tested homes in each county that came back at or above the EPA action level of 4 pCi/L. A low county number doesn't mean a home is safe — every county we serve has homes that tested high.

CountyHomes testedAt or above 4 pCi/LHighest result
Jackson2,53442.8%39.3 pCi/L
Barrow1,38536.9%92 pCi/L
Walton2,98535.4%48.1 pCi/L
Hart27933.0%49.1 pCi/L
Hall4,52032.4%80.2 pCi/L
Banks15832.3%21.8 pCi/L
Oglethorpe20729.0%37.4 pCi/L
Gwinnett13,80828.1%100 pCi/L
Franklin29025.2%26 pCi/L
Stephens36423.9%31 pCi/L
Greene69319.0%17.1 pCi/L
Morgan18718.7%20.7 pCi/L
Madison81618.6%40.9 pCi/L
Elbert58717.9%71 pCi/L
Oconee1,45814.9%33.2 pCi/L
Athens-Clarke2,93612.2%31.4 pCi/L

Source: UGA Extension Georgia Radon Map (test results reported 1990–2022). These are homes that chose to test, not a random sample.

Reading a result

What the numbers mean

Radon is measured in picocuries per liter of air (pCi/L).

Below 2 pCi/LYou're in good shape. The average indoor level is about 1.3 pCi/L; outdoor air averages about 0.4.
2 – 4 pCi/LConsider fixing. It's below the EPA action level, but the EPA says some risk remains.
4 pCi/L or higherFix the home. This is the EPA action level where mitigation is recommended.
Above 10 pCi/LElevated. Mitigation is strongly recommended — and usually straightforward to install.

Testing a home

How to find out if a home has radon

Most home inspectors in our area offer a radon test as an add-on to your general home inspection, so it's easy to schedule during your due diligence period. Ask for it when you book your inspection.

Best when buying

Professional test

Your home inspector or a radon professional places a continuous monitor in the home, usually for about 48 hours, and reports the result quickly — in time to negotiate before your due diligence ends.

Find a home inspector →
Homeowners · about $15

UGA test kit

UGA Extension sells an inexpensive short-term kit. Hang it 3–7 days in the lowest lived-in level, mail it in, and get results in about 7–10 days.

Current homeowners only. Not suggested if you're under contract — use a professional test through your inspector instead.

Order a UGA kit ↗
Homeowners

Digital radon monitor

A plug-in or battery monitor gives running readings on a screen or app — ideal for keeping an eye on levels after you move in.

Current homeowners only. Not suggested if you're under contract — use a professional test through your inspector instead.

For an accurate test

  • Keep windows and exterior doors closed for at least 12 hours before and during the test (normal coming and going is fine). Run the heat or A/C as usual.
  • Test in the lowest level that's lived in — a finished basement, or the first floor. Avoid bathrooms, kitchens and garages.
  • Place the device 2 to 6 feet off the floor, away from drafts, vents, heat and humidity, and don't move it.
  • Avoid testing during severe storms or very high winds if you can.
UGA testing instructions ↗

On a showing or inspection

What to look out for

Signs a home already has a system

  • A PVC pipe running from the foundation or crawlspace up the outside wall (or through the garage) to above the roofline.
  • A small in-line fan on that pipe — outside, in the attic or in the garage — that hums quietly.
  • A U-shaped gauge (manometer) on the pipe. When the system is running, the liquid levels on each side should be uneven. Even levels can mean the fan isn't working.
  • A sealed plastic vapor barrier across the crawlspace floor with a pipe coming out of it.

Questions to ask

  • Has the home ever been tested? Ask for the results and the date.
  • Was a mitigation system installed? By whom, when, and is there a warranty or a post-installation test?
  • Has anything changed since — a finished basement, an addition, foundation or HVAC work? Those can change radon levels.
  • Is the home on a private well? Radon can also come in through water. UGA recommends testing the air first, and testing the water if the air result is high.
UGA: radon in well water ↗

Mitigation

How radon gets fixed — and who fixes it

Sub-slab depressurization is the most common fix. A pipe is run from beneath the foundation up through or alongside the house to above the roof, and a small fan pulls the gas out from under the home and vents it safely outside.

For crawlspaces — very common around Athens — the mitigator seals a heavy plastic membrane over the crawlspace floor and pulls the radon out from underneath it the same way.

Sealing cracks and openings in the foundation is part of most systems, but sealing alone usually isn't enough. Improving ventilation can help some homes too.

A typical system costs a couple thousand dollars, doesn't require major changes to the house, and can bring most homes below 2 pCi/L. Always retest after it's installed.

Who fixes it

A radon mitigation contractor. Georgia doesn't require radon mitigators to be certified, so UGA recommends hiring one who is — through one of the two national programs:

Get estimates from more than one contractor, and ask each to explain exactly what they'll install and why it fits your home.

Radon pros we trust UGA: find a mitigator ↗

After you move in

Monitoring radon over time

Radon levels rise and fall with the seasons, the weather and how you use the house, so one test is a snapshot. Keep an eye on it:

Retest every couple of yearsThe EPA recommends retesting about every two years, even with a mitigation system.
Retest after changesFinishing a basement, adding on, foundation repairs or new HVAC can change radon levels.
Check your systemGlance at the manometer every so often — uneven liquid levels mean the fan is pulling. If it's even, call your mitigator.
Use a monitorA digital radon monitor in the lowest lived-in level shows trends over weeks and seasons.

Under contract

Radon during your purchase

  1. Add a radon test when you book your home inspection — most inspectors offer it.
  2. Use a professional test so results come back well before your due diligence deadline.
  3. If it's 4 pCi/L or higher, we'll ask the seller to install a mitigation system before closing or give you a credit toward one.
  4. If the seller installs it, ask for the contractor's invoice, warranty and a post-installation test.
  5. Remember: radon doesn't kill a deal. It just means you know about a fixable issue before you buy.
Home inspections guide Under-contract checklist

Resources

Learn more

Good to know: this page is general information, not medical or engineering advice. Talk with a certified radon professional about your specific home.